Palibachi's New York Cheesecake

Jan 27, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

My dear friend, Paul Goldstein, has live in Seattle for a few years now. But he's just about had it. See, according to Paul, Seattle has no really good kosher delis. That's right. Nothing in the vein reminiscent of his youth (and mine as well). No real New York style bagels or bialys, of stuffed kishka or derma, or even descent matzoh ball soup. Imagine that, loving in a place that has no genuine delis? Now, I'm sure Seattle is a wonderful town and, of course, it's got great coffee houses, not to mention Rainier beer but, a place that doesn't have a good old style deli? Well, I couldn't live there. More than once I've had to ship Paul New York bagels and babka to keep him going.

I can sympathize since I am a partisan of old style Yiddish cuisine in the Ashkenazi Eastern European tradition. But there's more. Paul asserts that he can't find a real danish in Seattle. By his account, if you drop a New York danish, it drops to the floor with a heavy thud. That's a danish. In Seattle they float down like a feather. But what was the last stray for Pablo, was the cheesecake saga---or lack of it. He says the cheesecake in his area leaves a lot to be desired. Nothing like the genuine creamy concoction we get here. Paul's cheesecake jones has gotten so bad he's been forced to make his own cheesecake. And that's the recipe that follows below. It's based on an original recipe but with reduced sugar. And it's pretty good. Even if you live on the East Coast and have access to good cheesecake, this recipe, if nothing else, is fun to make, and you get to eat homemade cheesecake. For a cheesecake addict, it doesn't get better than that.

PALIBACHI"S NEW YORK CHEESECAKE (with or without pie filling)

9-inch spring form pan required

Shell ingredients:

1 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1 stick of butter
1 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 egg yolk

Filing:

5 8-ounce packages of Philadelphia cream cheese. YES, YOU NEED FIVE!
5 eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel
1/4 to 1/2 cup heavy or light whipping cream
3/4 cup sugar (works well with cherry pie filling, a nice contrast)
1 1/2 tablespoons flour
Cherry pie filling (canned or commercial is okay)

To make shell:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees
2. Melt butter in a small pot or pan, remove from heat. Add all the shell ingredients and mix together until thick. Remove bottom of spring form pan. Using about a 1/3 of the shell mixture, spread it over the entire bottom of the pan using your fingers and palm, covering the entire pan but no more than about 1/4-inch thick.
3. Place in oven and bake for approximately 10 minutes or until golden brown (while this is baking you can prepare the filling).
4. Remove and let cool.
5. Place ring around bottom making sure it is sealed properly. Spread the reminder of shell mixture around the ring using your fingers making sure ring sides and bottom are sealed (sides do not have to be thick).

Cheesecake Filling:

1. Soften the Philadelphia cream cheese packs. YES, YOU NEED 5! IT'S NOT A NEW YORK CHEESECAKE UNLESS YOU DO. Combine and mix in a bowl with the whipping cream. If you don't have an electric mixer, a hand mixer works just as well if you first soften the cream cheese in the oven.
2. Add all other ingredients except cherry pie filling. Fill the spring form pan with the filling. If you are making a cherry cheese cake, pour just enough of the filling to cover the bottom of the pan then add the cherry pie filling. You can save a small amount to use as a large circle topping afterward if so desired.
3. Place in oven and bake for 30 minutes. Let it cool in the oven, and then let it cool further on the counter top. Place in the refrigerator (Paul states it is best eaten the next day---if you can wait).

Sukiyaki - The Perfect Party Dish

Jan 20, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Back when I was a young man there was a hit song: "Sukiyaki," sung in Japanese by a crooner named Kyu Sakamoto. As far as I know it was the only Japanese language song to top the charts in the U.S. It wasn't until years later when I was in Japan that I discovered the dish, sukiyaki. This gem is a popular one-pot meal in Japan, and is the perfect winter dish. It is a dish cooked in the nabemono (Japanese Hot Pot) style; and normally consists of thin slices of beef slowly cooked or simmered in a pan or skillet with other ingredients such as vegetables, to which soy sauce, sugar and mirin (Japanese rice wine) can be added. A vegetarian version can be made with tofu.

The origins of sukiyaki are murky. Meat, especially game and poultry has been cooked in Japan since time immemorial. Farmers use to cook the meat (yaki) by grilling it outside on a spade or plow share (suki). Hence, the literal meaning, sukiyaki. In the 16th century Portuguese traders brought beef with them, and the Japanese started preparing sukiyaki with beef.

Today sukiyaki is popular world-wide, and can be found in many restaurant menus. It is the perfect party dish since it can be cooked at table with the ingredients already set individually or in a large plate. You cook the ingredients as you go. You don't have to cook in the kitchen, as noted in the recipe below. And remember that sukiyaki is a communal thing. It cannot wait for the guests. Before cooking begins, have your guests comfortable and seated, nibbling on appetizers, and the hot rice served at the beginning.

SUKIYAKI

1 1/2 pounds beef tenderloin or flank steak
1 pound rice (it could be short grain, such as Nishiki, or medium or long grain)
1/2 pound transparent or silver noodles
6 scallions, washed and cut into thin slices (minus the root end)
8-10 white mushrooms, cut through the stem and crown so that it resembles a "T" shape.
1/2 pound fresh spinach, washed and torn into bite-size pieces
1 pound canned bamboo shoots, drained
1/2 pound bean sprouts, drained if canned. If fresh, blanch, then rinse and drain.
2 tablespoons peanut oil

Sauce:
1 cup soy sauce
1/2 cup rice wine (mirin) or dry sherry
2 teaspoons sugar

1. Put the meat in the freezer for about 1/2 hour to firm it enough so that it can be sliced into paper thin slices. If the slices are longer than 4 inches, halve them. Arrange meat slices on a round platter, slightly overlapping, cover with aluminum foil and refrigerate.
2. Cook rice according to package directions. Set aside and keep it warm.
3. Place noodles in a bowl. Cover with boiling water, and soak for 20 minutes. Drain, and repeat procedure. Drain again and place in bowl.
4. Here you have a choice. You can either arrange all the vegetable on a large platter. Or you can put the onions and scallions in one bowl, each divided into one-half of the bowl; and the mushrooms, spinach, bamboo shoots, and bean sprouts into their own small bowls as well.
5. Prepare sauce: In a small saucepan bring soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, and sugar to a boil. Pour into a sauce dish.
6. Place wok (on top of a burner) or an electric frying pan in the middle of the table. Spoon rice into 4 individual bowls. Arrange all ingredients around the wok or fry pan. Heat oil in the wok or pan over high heat. Add one-fourth of meat slices and brown quickly on both sides. Sprinkle some of the sauce mixture over the meat, and push aside. Add one-fourth of each of the vegetables and noodles and stir-fry for approximately 3 minutes.
7. Each guest is given part of the cooked meal and starts eating while the second portion is being prepared. Each guest can add more sauce according to taste.
Yield: 4 servings.
Note: Traditional sukiyaki in Japan includes a bowl of raw beaten eggs. Each guest dips the cooked vegetables into the eggs before eating. I have a problem with raw eggs in any venue, even with cooked vegetables. If you want to include eggs, an alternative is to cook the eggs with the ingredients and then serve.

The Wonders of Garlic

Jan 14, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

I am a garlic lover. I make no bones about that. Always have been. Always will be. Lucky for me, my significant other also loves garlic. And that helps in a relationship. Garlic is the wonder food, wonder herb, wonder medicine all combined in one. Most of us know it as a seasoning. But did you know that garlic has a pedigree that goes back to the beginning of time? It began in Central Asia in Neolithic Times, and then spread to the world. The Ancient Greeks used garlic to boost strength. the Roman legions fed it to their soldiers to make them stronger and more courageous. The Ancient Indians considered it an aphrodisiac. The Egyptian "Codex Ebers," the oldest preserved medical document written in 1550 B.C.E., has 22 different medical formulations for garlic. Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, used garlic to treat pneumonia and cancerous tumors. Louis Pasteur recommended it as an antiseptic in 1858. And during World War II the British and Russians, when nothing else was available, used it to disinfect wounds and treat gangrene.

Garlic's history is phenomenal. In the Mishnah, a collection of Jewish traditions incorporated into the Talmud, the ancient Hebrew writers refer to themselves as "The Garlic Eaters"---and this was probably long before Moses came on the scene. In some circles, garlic (allium sativum) is known as the "stinking rose." And because of its pungent smell, in certain cultures it's used as a mosquito repellent. Figure it this way, if nothing else, it keeps vampires away. In Palastinian tradition a groom wears a clove of garlic in his buttonhole to guarantee a happy wedding night---who needs Viagra?

Garlic is GOOD for you. It contains antioxidants, and is a good source of protein and minerals such as calcium, iron and potassium. It also has vitamin A, vitamin B1 (thiamine) and vitamin C.

Today garlic is known mainly for its cooking properties, since it has been used since ancient times as an herbal flavoring. I cook with garlic all the time. Need that special lift that will transform an ordinary dish into something unique?---add garlic, chopped, crushed, whole, raw or cooked.

For those out you out there who complain: "But what about the smell?" Simple, stop bitching and take some breath mints. believe me, what garlic affords goes beyond its odor.

Following along this vein, below is a recipe that uses lots of garlic. Don't be concerned. Only the distinct flavor will survive in the dish, and it will transport you to heaven.

GARLIC CHICKEN

4 small roasting chickens, quartered
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons oregano
2 heads of garlic
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/2 cup olive oil
4 sprigs fresh rosemary

1. Take one head of garlic, separate cloves, and leave them unpeeled. Peel the second head of garlic and crush the cloves.
2. Rinse chicken parts under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. Season the chicken with salt, pepper and oregano.
3. Place the chicken in a pan or dish, and add the peeled and crush garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and rosemary. Roll chicken pieces in the mixture, coating well. Cover and let marinate 2 hours, turning occasionally.
4. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place unpeeled garlic cloves in a single layer in a lightly greased roasting pan; and roast 20 minutes, stirring cloves from time to time. Remove from oven.
5. Drain chicken parts and discard marinade.
6. Place chicken, skin side down in a greased roasting pan, and roast for 15 minutes at 4oo degrees. Reduce heat to 375 and roast about 45 minutes more or until done.
7. Remove the chicken from the oven. Let it stand at room temperature for 15 minutes, and serve with the roasted garlic.
Yield: 4 servings.

Comfort Food - Kugel

Jan 8, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Kugel is a dish that was introduced to me by my close and dear friend, Paul Goldstein. When I was a young man, we were roommates and shared a place together in the upper Bronx. I had just returned from Vietnam and, admittedly, my interests were in good drink, chasing the ladies, and having fun. Paul, on the other hand, apart from his many talents, was a good cook. See, Paul is the archetypical Renaissance man: he is a sculptor, writer, artist---and a damn good carpenter to boot. One of our culinary mainstays during those days was kugel.

For those unfamiliar with it, kugel is a Jewish casserole that may be served as a side dish or a dessert. The word itself comes from the German. It means "ball" or "round." The dish was given this name because of the small round pot in which it was cooked. As noted, it is of Eastern European Ashkenazi origin. It is normally eaten on the Jewish Sabbath, as well as other Jewish holidays.

Kugels began about 800 years ago; and they were made from bread and flour. Today the base ingredient for kugel may include potatoes, noodles, or matzo flour. There are fruit kugels, vegetable kugels, and even (I'm told) Rice Crispy kugel (no lie). So herein is Paul Goldstein's kugel, which is based on his aunt's original recipe (with modifications). Whip it up tonight (or whenever you wish), and have a great time. Note that the dish can be served hot or cold, by itself, or with apple sauce or sour cream. You can even try it with vanilla ice cream.

PAUL GODLSTEIN'S KUGEL

8 ounces egg noodles
2 eggs
2 golden delicious apples, peeled and cut into large pieces
1 pear, peeled and cut into large pieces
1/3 cup raisins
cinnamon (to taste---lots of it)
Margarine or butter

1. Cook egg noodles according to package directions, drain and put back into the pot or pan.
2. Add apples, raisins, eggs, and cinnamon.
3. Heavily apply either the margarine or butter to a large cast-iron frying pan, making sure the sides are well covered with the margarine. Pour noodle mixture into pan and press down with hand and fingers.
4. Cook on medium heat until bottom is either blackened or slightly burned. Turn the kugel over into a plate, grease the pan again and slip the kugel back into the pan. Cook until other side is done. Usually the pan is covered while the second side is cooking.
Yield: about 6 servings.

Coconut Rice Pudding for Epiphany

Jan 5, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

We are coming up on January 6th, which is the time where in the Spain, the Caribbean, and Latin America, they celebrate the Epiphany. This commemorates the birth of Jesus Christ and the visitation of the three Magi, or Wise Men from the east. These three royal wise men or kings were Melchior (representing Europe), Gaspar (Arabia) and Balthazar (Africa). They brought gifts, respectively, of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the baby Jesus. The day is Known as El Dia De Los Reyes (the Day of the Kings); and it is also sometimes called EL Dia De Los Reyes Magos (The Day of the Three Royal Magi).

Traditionally, just like at Christmas, children receive gifts to commemorate the day. In Puerto Rico, in the old days, it was customary for kids to fill a box with grass or hay and put it underneath the bed. This was for the camels that the magi rode to Bethlehem, where Jesus was born, following the star that led them there. You left the grass or hay so that the Wise Kings would be generous with their gifts. The custom is similar to kids in the U.S. leaving out milk and cookies for Santa Claus.

In Louisiana, Epiphany is the beginning of the Mardi Gras season, with the revels and parades the citizens of New Orleans are so familiar with.

In our culture, a traditional dish for the holidays, inclusive of Epiphany, is Arroz con Dulce (also known as Arroz con Coco). It's a coconut based rice pudding. The normal way of preparing it involves using ripe coconuts, extracting the coconut milk, grating and using the coconut shreds to enhance the liquid used for cooking the dish. It's great but time consuming. If you don't have coconuts around, it perfectly alright to substitute coconut cream or milk which can be found in almost any supermarket these days. If you want the original recipe, check it out in my cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Books Group). Otherwise, just follow the condensed recipe given below.

ARROZ CON DULCE (Rice Pudding)

2 cups rice (either long grain or short grain)

2 cups coconut milk

1 5-ounce can evaporated milk

1 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 cup seedless black raisins

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon butter or margarine

1/2 cup cracker crumbs

1. Place rice in a saucepan with water to cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 5 hours or preferably overnight.

2. Drain rice, place in a pot or saucepan and add 1 cup of coconut milk, evaporated milk, cinnamon, cloves, salt, vanilla, raisins, 1 cup sugar, and butter. Cook on moderate heat, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, for 1/2 hour or until rice is tender.

3. Add second of coconut milk and remaining 1/2 cup sugar. Stir to blend. Cover and simmer on low heat for 5 minutes.

4. Spoon into a round serving platter or pie plate.

5. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and allow to cool at room temperature before serving.

Yield: 10 servings or more.

Sherlock Holmes - A Gem Article

Jan 2, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Happy New Year. Yesterday, as noted in the prior blog post, we had our annual Hoppin' John dinner which ensures continual good luck for the coming season (you have to read the blog to get the gist of it). During our dinner conversation, our guests remarked upon the new Sherlock Holmes movie out in theaters. This one stars Robert Downey Jr. as the protagonist, Holmes, and Jude law as the ever faithful Dr. Watson. My recollections of Sherlock Holmes are, of course, from the 1940s movies with Basil Rathbone, and the Masterpiece theater presentations, in which the whole Holmes cannon was presented with Jeremy Brett as the inimitable detective.

Like most, I'm fascinated by the facile detective and his almost supernatural powers of deduction. I came across a piece about Sherlock Holmes which I found particularly elucidating. It concerns the Holmes creator, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. It's from Isaac Asimov's Treasury of Humor (Houghton Mifflin Company). And it puts a whole new perspective on the Sherlock Holmes phenomena.

"Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, of the famous Sherlock Holmes stories, once hailed a cab in Paris. He climbed in with his bag, but before he could say a word, the driver said, 'Where to, Mr. Conan Doyle?'

'You recognize me? said the author in surprise.'

'No, I've never seen you.'

'Then how do you know I'm Conan Doyle?'

'Well,' the driver said, 'I've read in the newspapers that you were on vacation in the south of France; I noticed you getting off the train that came from Marseilles; I see you have a fan that bespeaks a week or more in the sun; from the ink spot on your right finger, I deduce you are a writer; you have the keen look of a medical man, and the clothes of an Englishman. I felt you must be Conan Doyle, the creator of the detective, Sherlock Holmes.'

Conan Doyle burst out, 'but you are yourself the equal of Sherlock Holmes since you recognized me from all these small observations.'

'There is,' the driver said, 'one additional fact.'

'And that is?'

'Your name is on the bag.' "