Hamantashen - The Big Megillah

Feb 24, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera


Purim is one of my favorite Jewish holidays. It is a fun event where those of the faith feast and send gifts of food to friends and the needy. I like holidays like these, the ones where you indulge rather than fast or abstain or deny yourself. Give me the fun holidays any day. It is celebrated on the 14th of Adar (usually late March) as reckoned by the Jewish calender; and it commemorates the time when the Jewish people living in Persia were saved from extermination by the beautiful Queen Esther, who was wife to Ahasuerus, King of Persia. She foiled the plan of the villainous Haman, the scheming advisor to the king, and who had planned to kill the Jews in the land.

When I was a young man back on the block, I had a Jewish friend who would always comment or complain about something being a "big Megillah," that is, a thing being important and of note, or just a big bother. I did not know what he was talking about and it was years later when I discovered that the Book of Esther, read during Purim, is also commonly known as the Megillah (which means scroll). But I did discover hamantashen early on, and I love those suckers.

Hamantashen (or hamantaschen) is a triangular fruit-filled pastry traditionally served during Purim. It gets its name form the evil character Haman, who wore a three-cornered hat. Initially, hamantashen pastries were filled with poppy seed fillings. But over time the filling became more diverse so that today you have hamantashen filled with fruit preserves (especially apricot) cherry jam, pie filling, and even chocolate. Yet my favorite filling has always been and remains, prunes. That's right: prunes. There's something about the things that's addictive in hamantashen.

So, below, is my favorite prune-filled hamantashen recipe. It you don't like prunes, that's your problem, use another filling.

PRUNE FILLED HAMANTASHEN

1 cup granulated sugar
1 stick margarine
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 eggs
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder

Prune Filling:

2 pounds, prunes, pitted and chopped
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 lemon, juice and rind
3 tablespoons honey

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the sugar and margarine, blending thoroughly. Add vanilla, eggs, and lemon peel, and blend. Stir in flour and baking powder; and mix into a dough. (If dough is too sticky to handle, can add up to 1/4 cup additional flour). Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours or until dough is firm
2. Meanwhile, prepare the filling by rinsing the prunes and raisins, placing in a pan with enough water to cover and then boiling for about 5 minutes. Combine with the rest of the filling ingredients in a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. (This may have to be done in batches).
3. Roll out half of dough at a time, to about 1/4-inch thickness, on a lightly floured surface (try not to get holes in the batter). Cut into 3 or 4-inch rounds using a cookie cutter. Spoon one teaspoon filling into the middle of each round. Fold up the sides to make a triangle, folding the last corner under the starting point, so that each has a corner that folds under. Pinch the edges together firmly. This pinwheel style makes for a better triangle shape and reduces the chance of the filling spilling out during baking.
4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place hamantashen about 2 inches apart on a lightly greased baking sheet or large baking pan and bake from 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown (be careful that the filling does not boil over). Remove to a wire rack and let cool. When the hamantashen come out of the oven the dough may be slightly soft, but it will firm as it cools off.
Yield: about 5 dozen hamantashen.

Movie Bloopers

Feb 23, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

From time to time, oversights in the visual production of a movie become legendary. What we call "movie bloopers." This occurred to me a couple of nights ago while I was watching the old movie version of Neil Simon's Biloxi Blues. In a pivotal last scene, Christopher Walken, as the deranged Sgt. Toomey, threatens to kill the lead protagonist (Matthew Broderick). Walken and Broderick have a running commentary, standing outside in the rain, with Sgt. Toomey in his uniform showing a row of ribbons on his shirt, inclusive of the purple heart. Problem is, going back and forth in the discussion between the two, sometimes you see the ribbons on Walken's chest, and sometimes you don't. I imagine they were doing numerous takes and, in-between , the make-up people would put on and take off the ribbons. It became disconcerting. I watched the scene wondering where the ribbons were. How come, during the conversation, sometimes he had them on and sometimes not?

Compared to other movie bloopers, this was minor. I recall when I was in the Marine Corps in Camp Pendleton (California) we always watched one movie that made us go wild, clapping and cheering. That was a Clint Eastwood spaghetti western, For a few Dollars More, where in one scene, Eastwood as the silent, poncho-attired hero meets Lee Van Cleef in a showdown. Just before the gunfight, both men stare at each other in the middle of town, with the Sergio Leone music in the background, ready to draw their guns. And just before the shoot-out, a 727 jet plane flies over Eastwood's right shoulder. We young marines must have watched that movie a dozen times just for that one scene. Imagine, a setting in the Old West in the 1800s with a jet plane flying overhead. Precious.

But the most memorable movie blooper I recall was from the epic, Cleopatra, where Liz Taylor, as the Nile queen, says a tearful goodbye to Julius Caesar (Rex Harrison) just before he departs for Rome. A group of soldiers come to escort Caesar and salute him by snapping a fist to their chests. Well, one of the centurions is wearing a Rolex watch. Priceless. And this 2,000 years before wrist watches were invented.

Recently I discovered they were showing Cleopatra on a movie channel. I told my wife she just had to watch this scene with the Roman soldiers and the watch. Alas, the scene was cut from this version. I imagine, somewhere along the line someone picked up on it. But, once in a while, when a movie blooper like this happens, it just makes my day.

Prized Eggplant

Feb 20, 2010 

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Eggplant is one of those things that you love or hate. Either you like it or you don't. I'm in the former category. I love eggplant; mainly for its versatility. It can be boiled, fried, baked, grilled, whatever. Most people just dip it in bread creams or flour and fry it, using egg yolks as a binder. One of the easiest way to prepare it, I've discovered, is to layer slices of eggplant and tomatoes in a casserole. Then pour sour cream over the layers and bake. Easy, quick and delish.

But my all time favorite eggplant dish is the one listed below. This recipe was given to me 100 years ago by an old friend. Where she got it from I don't know. It could have been a family recipe, maybe not. All I know is that it's the most delicious eggplant preparation I've ever taste. It can be served an an appetizer or an entree as is. Or you can serve it with rice. It's Moroccan so I assume it's got a long pedigree, and it uses items such as cilantro and cumin. And it's a great vegetarian dish for all you vegans out there.

MOROCCAN EGGPLANT

2 eggplants (approximately 1 pound each)
2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 small piece of fresh ginger (about 1-inch long), minced
1 teaspoon fresh hot pepper, minced
5 cups tightly packed cilantro leaves
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt to taste
2 lemons, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Prick the eggplant several times with a fork, and rub the skin of each thoroughly with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil.
2. Bake on oven rack for about 1 hour, or until soft. Remove from oven and allow to cool.
3. Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade, process 3 tablespoons of olive oil with garlic, ginger, and hot pepper until smooth. Continue processing while adding cilantro leaves, lemon juice,cumin, salt, and the remaining olive oil. Process until smooth.
4. With a pairing knife, peel the skin from each eggplant, starting from the stem end and pulling the skin downward, leaving the stem attached. Starting just below the stem and moving down, slice peeled eggplant lengthwise into three strips. (Keep attached to stem.) Lay eggplants on a platter and slightly fan out the three sections. Spoon cilantro sauce over fleshy part of eggplant. Garnish with slices of lemon.
Yield: 4 servings.

Peasantry in America

Feb 15, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

I'm going to put on my social conscience hat on for this tidbit. Occasionally I do that, as witnessned my last novel, The Proud and the Immortal, a tome about modern day homelessness in America. Or as some would clasify it, an atypical tale about the haves and have-nots in our society. This all came back to me when I came across the work of poet Jim Harrison. Yup, sometimes peotry says it all.

What got me on this kick? Well, it's no secret that the U.S. is fast becoming the most econonically stratified society in the western world. This fact is particularly obvious since I live in New York City, where the middled class is being rapidly decimated by Bloomberg and his real estate cronies. But it's not only that, it's the recession in general which has really made it clear the inequity between the rich and poor. And it is a gap that's widening. Let me give you some numbers. According to the Survey of Consumer Finances sponsored by the Federal Reserve Board, the wealthiest 1% of families in America own roughly 34.3% of the nation's wealth; and the top 10% own over 71%.

Another sudy by New York University made it even more stark: in terms of financial wealth, the raw calculus just dealing with money, they own an even greater share of 42.7%. Since financial wealth is what counts, we can say that just 10% of the people in our country own the United Sates of America. For the rest of us? Either we get by or starve. Now, history has shown that such disparities in wealth is not good for the body politic. And it's even worse when (and this according to government statistics) over 32 million citizens live below the poverty line.

I could go on spouting statistics and studies and numbers till your head hurts. But, Jim Harrison's poem given below says it best. It's a cry, and a warning.

EASTER MORNING

On Easter morning all over America
the peasants are frying potatoes in bacon grease.

We're not suppose to have "peasants"
but there are tens of millions of them
frying potatoes on Easter morning,
cheap and delicious with catsup.

If Jesus were here this morning, he might
be eating fried potatoes with my friend
who has a '51 Dodge and a '72 Pontiac.

When his kids ask why they don't have
a new car he says, "these care were new once
and now they are experienced."

He can fix anything and when rich folks
call to get a toilet repaired he pauses
extra hours so they can further
learn what we're made of.

I told him that in Mexico the poor say
that when there's lightning the rich
think that God is taking their picture.
He laughed.

Like peasants everywhere in the history
of the world ours can't figure out why
they're getting poorer. Their sons join
the army to get work at being shot at.

Your ideals are invisible clouds
so try not to suffocate the poor,
the peasants, with your sympathies,
they know that you're staring at them.

Valentine's Day Treat - Veal Marsala

Feb 11, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera


Normally, Valentine's Day, apart from the flowers and candy, is a time when you and your special someone go to a restaurant, have the Valentine's Day special, and make goo-goo eyes at each other while waiters hover about taking orders and carrying food. Well, here's a thought: why not cook a special meal for that special someone? That's right. Stay home, light up a few candles, put on a Barry White CD, chill the champagne, and make a special dish that will knock their socks off. If there are kids in the way, park 'em with your in-laws or shell out some cash for a baby sitter. Remember, Valentine's Day comes but once a year. A good, romantic meal will make up for a lot, laddies and lassies.

And nothing lights up the sequence like Veal Marsala. I know, it sounds Frenchified, but it ain't. Also, it's quite easy to prepare. Not time consuming at all; so you'll have more time to hold hands and do whatever. Naturally, you need Marsala to prepare the dish. It's a sweet to semi-sweet fortified wine similar to port or sherry. You want to use the sweet Marsala (dolce---such as a Rubino). The wine gives a unique flavor to the dish that cannot be imitated by any other type of wine---so do not substitute. Only Marsala wine will do. I like to cook the veal in an electric skillet at the table since you have to flame the meat, and it adds that special elegance when you want to impress your partner. Be careful to use a long matchstick so it doesn't backfire and you burn yourself.

Now, for that special meal, start off with a salad, or a cream soup such as mushroom or spinach. To enhance that continental flavor you can add some garlic bread. If you don't know how to make garlic bread, you can substitute a round facaccia loaf, sprinkle some garlic on it, and drizzle it with a light olive oil (don't worry about the garlic. At this point, you're mind and body are going to be on other things). And to end the meal, nothing beats big juicy strawberries, halved and served with some light cream. Or you can take whole strawberries and dip them in cream or brown cane sugar and offer it to each other. You get the idea.

This entree can be served with rice or steamed vegetables and/or potatoes as an accompaniment. Veal Marsala can also be made with chicken breasts (Chicken Marsala). Just pound chicken breasts halves to about 1/4-inch thick or less and cook just like the veal. Either way, whichever ingredient you use, your true love is going to love you more.

VEAL MARSALA

1/2 pound veal, sliced wafer thin, or 4 veal cutlets (about 3 ounces each), thinly sliced
Note: if the veal cutlets are not sliced thin, you can pound them between two sheets of wax
paper or aluminum foil until 1/4-inch thick or less
3 tablespoons four
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons minced shallots
1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
1/4 cup Marsala wine
2-3 parsley sprigs

1. Combine the flour with the salt and pepper. Dredge the veal in flour and shake off any excess.
2. In a skillet large enough to hold the veal comfortably in s single layer, heat the butter over medium heat. When it is hot, brown veal quickly on both sides.
3. Add shallots and mushrooms and cook for 2-3 minutes.
4. Add Marsala wine. Place a lighted match to it and flame it. Saute all the ingredients until the flame dies down. This should be done rather quickly (you don't want to overcook the meat). Garnish with parsley and serve immediately.
Yield: 2 servings.

Classic French Cooking - Easy as Steak

Feb 5, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Julia Child is one of my heroes. Along with James Beard. They made classic French cuisine accessible to the American public. Still, unless you're a genuine Francophile, classic French cooking stuns most Americans. By that I mean the classic French dishes epitomized by such 19th century giants as Auguste Escoffier, and in the 20th century by Paul Bocuse and Fernand Point. These gastronomes took French cooking to its classic heights. But how many of us have the time or the inclination to prepare duck a' l'orange or a beef Richelieu with foie gras (goose liver pate) and truffles (rare mushrooms found by pigs attracted to the thing)? This mystique has, in some cases, prevented us from actually preparing a classic French meal.

It's like the fancy-dan wines with appellations and chateaus and hard-to-pronounced names. Fortunately, all French cuisine is not so arduous. The fabled country cooking of Brittany, for example, has great simplicity yet produces great dishes. Nothing can beat a basic grilled chicken (Poulet Grille) with a butter sauce. In the south of France you have the famed cassoulet, a mix of beans, pork, duck, lamb and everything in between. A hardy repast for hardy souls, and not fancy at all. Even classic French cuisine can be found at this level.

There are some classic French dishes that take no time at all and transfer you to heaven with flavor. When James Beard published his first cookbook in 1940 Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes, one for the first recipes he included was mushrooms stuffed with Roquefort cheese, a very simple dish That's right, to most Americans, stuffed mushrooms, at the time, were totally alien. The recipe that follows below is in that vein. It's French, has a highfalutin French name, but its easy. Today, steak au poivre vert is cooked in firehouses between shifts. You wanna impress your friends with a classic French meal? Just whip this up. Add some pommes frites (French fries) and steamed vegetables, a nice Bordeaux wine, and you got it made. Especially for you young single guys and gals trying to impress someone of interest. Go at it, kiddies. They'll be amazed at your dexterity with French cooking.

Steak au poivre vert calls for green peppercorns (vert means green in French). They can be found in almost any supermarket these days, in jars packed in brine or canned. If canned, just rinse and drain. If in brine, no need to rinse. If you can't find or don't want to use green peppercorns, regular black peppercorns can be used. In that case, the dish is just plain steak au poivre.

STEAK AU POIVRE VERT

2 tablespoons green peppercorn (either canned or packed in brine - see above)
1 1/2 pounds boneless beef round, top-round steak, or sirloin, 3/4-inch thick, trimmed of fat;
or 4 boneless shell steaks, about 10 ounces each
3 tablespoons butter or margarine
Salt to taste

1. Crush the peppercorns in a mortar with a pestle or place them in a plastic bag with a rolling pin. Moisten surface of steak lightly with water, and press pepper into both sides of meat with heel of hand and fingers.
2. Melt the butter in a large heavy frying pan or skillet over high heat (I prefer cast-iron). Add meat and quickly saute on both sides, turning once or twice. The outside should be browned, but the inside should be slightly pink and rare.
3. Season with salt, and serve sliced thinly against the grain.
Yield: 4 servings.

Note: If you want to fancify the dish even more, once the meat is done, remove to a warm platter, add another tablespoon of butter to the pan, add some chopped onions or shallots, and cook until golden. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine and cook until wine is reduced to a tablespoon or so. Add 1/2 cup heavy cream and cook about another minute. Then you can pour this sauce over the steak. Another variation is to use 2 tablespoons brandy or cognac and 1/2 cup beef bouillon in lie of the wine and cream. Either way, you can't go wrong.