Easter Lamb

March 29, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Back when I was growing up on the block, Easter dinner was usually celebrated with pernil, or roasted pork shoulder. In some case it was ham, normally of the Smithfield variety with a honey or syrupy glaze. But in my family Easter dinner meant lamb, in a glorious roast and seasoned to perfection. As I reflected on it, it made sense. After all, Christ the Lord was a shepherd so what better way to celebrate his resurrection than with a good lamb dish.

The family ritual meant watching the Easter Parade, so-called, on the tube, having a few beers and some shots of rum in between, and then the great dinner. In those days the parade was hosted by a local newsman named John Tillman, on channel eleven. It was so long ago sometimes I wonder what ever happened to Mr. Tillman. As for the event, people would dress up in their best finery. It wasn't till years later that I discovered that the "Easter Parade" wasn't anything like a parade, but just a bunch of folks dressed up like popinjays strolling up and down fifth avenue. Today, I'm told, the devotees can really crop up in outlandish costumes. To each his own.

Anyway, here's the lamb dish, still as good now as it was then. I'll be serving it again this Easter Sunday. In my crowd we eschew the mint or fruit glazes common to lamb dishes. We prefer the simple roast flavored with herbs and spices, with potatoes or root plants (bianda) baked alongside. For those who worry about the fat content, you can roast the lamb on a rack with baking pan underneath. Whether you do it that way or in the traditional manner, drain excess fat after roasting. And a good Australian Shiraz, Argentine Malbec, or California Pinot Noir goes great with the dish. Oh, yes, the recipe comes from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Thunder's Mouth Press).

PATA DE CORNERO AL HORNO
(ROAST LEG OF LAMB)

1 leg of lamb, about 5 pounds
3 cloves garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
10 whole black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon powdered thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 large potatoes, peeled and quartered

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Rinse lamb under cold running water and pat dry with paper towel.
3. With a sharp knife make several slits in the lamb. Stud the slits with garlic slivers.
4. Place peppercorns, oregano, salt, thyme and marjoram in a mortar and pound until crushed. Blend in olive oil.
5. Rub seasoning over entire leg of lamb.
6. Arrange lamb in a shallow baking pan, fat side up, and bake for 1 hour, basting occasionally. Arrange potatoes around lamb, and continue baking 1 1/2 to 2 hours depending on desired doneness.
Yield: 6 or more servings.

Ministry of Fear

March 26, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Like most everyone else I spent the week catching up on the reform health care debate, and its passage. It's now law. A majority of Americans will have health care, however imperfect. But what intrigued me was the outpouring of outright vehemence from certain groups as to its passage. By that I mean, predominantly, the tea party movement. The differences in tone stuck me. There's President Obama at a rally in Iowa with an audience of young and old, people of every class and station and they exuded unbounded optimism. Then I would watch the other side, on the same cable programs, and what came at me were middle age white men and women spouting sheer hatred and venom. No optimistic sunniness for these guys. The contrast was startling.

I spoke to my wife about this, trying to understand the depth of animus in this group. She put it succinctly: These people are afraid that they are losing their nation. This fear is palpable because given current demographic trends, their worse imaginings will come to pass. They will no longer be majority in their own land. They conceive of it as the mongrelization of America. They are losing control to the Other: the ethnics, the blacks, the Asians, Hispanics, etc. As a white Anglo-Saxon, my wife can understand this fear. She put it to me this way: suppose I lived in Puerto Rico and discovered that in a short while Puerto Ricans would be a minority in their own land. Or a Frenchman finding out that he is a minority in France; or a German coming to the realization that he will be outnumbered in Germany. This one constant terrifies the tea partyers. Forget about health care, or government takeover, or federal intrusion in your life, or increase taxation---that's the screen they use. The real fear is racial. And the election of black man as president exemplifies this fear as never before. This, to me, became vividly stark when I saw an old white biddy with a sign proclaiming: "Impeach the Kenyan." It is scary, mainly because they feel the tide is going against them, these protesters. They hunger for the mythical past of the 1950s and Ozzie and Harriet and Leave it to Beaver where June Clever, the mother, would vacuum the rug in high heels and pearls, and Ward Cleaver, the father, would never take off his suit jacket, even at home.

The ironies abound. The same people who fear government intrusion into our lives will use government power to deny homosexuals and lesbians their right to wed. The same people who quote God at every turn will deny a woman her right to consul her own deity, and her own doctor, with regard to reproductive rights. The same people who claim to espouse freedom of speech would deny that same freedom to others. Now, I'm not claiming that all who belong to the tea party movement are out-and-out racists, that would be idiotic. There are those, I'm sure, who simply object to the current path solely on philosophical grounds. Genuine conservative thought and precepts have had a long and honored tradition in our nation. But, when one radical fringe group takes over one of our major parties with a platform based on hate and racial prejudice, that is worrisome. And the Republicans should take note. Such movements have a tendency of devouring their own---as witness John McCain who, a short while ago, was the darling and presidential candidate of the party, and who today is fighting for his political life because the tea partyers don't consider him conservative enough or "pure" enough for their taste. Gives credence to the old maxim: Beware of what you wish for.

The sad fact is that this has all happened before. It occurred in the 1850s when the Know Nothing Party fulminated against the "scummy" Irish who were invading our shores and who would turn the nation into a papist outpost and undermine our true Protestant ethic. It reared its ugly head again in the 1900s nativist movement against those "greasy" Italians and "dumb-ass" poles who were polluting out national heritage. You saw in the 1920s when, at its height, the Ku Klux Klan had millions parade on Washington D.C. decrying the growing influence of "uppity" Negroes and "vile" Jews who would besmirch our nation's honor. It happened in the 1950s when the John Birch Society railed against the Communists and suspected Communists who were organizing labor unions in order to, ostensibly, overthrow the government. Each nutty movement came and went. And we survived.

My friends, we will survive this two. We've survived worse. We did it over 200 years ago when 13 diverse colonies took on the greatest empire on earth. And against all odds, when they were counted out, they persevered and installed this Republic. Eight decades later the fledgling Republic was engulfed in a horrendous civil war, and it survived, emerging stronger and more united. It took on the threat of Fascism and Communism, and vanquished both, relegating such unnatural ideologies to the ash heap of history. So, yes, we will overcome the reactionaries within tea party movement and its ilk. The challenge now is to hang on until the glorious sunrise.

Brisket For Passover

March 22, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

In my young manhood I was introduced to the ritual of Passover by some Jewish friends. They invited me over for a traditional Passover Seder, and I was fascinated by the whole concept. Passover, I discovered, commemorates the ancient Hebrews' deliverance from slavery in Egypt. It begins on the 15th day of the month of Nisan as reckoned by the Hebrew Bible. Nisan is the first month of the Hebrew calendar and is comparable to March and April in the Christian calendar.

According to the Book of Exodus, when the ancient Hebrews left Egypt, they were in such a hurry to get out that they had no time to wait for the bread they had prepared for the day's meal to rise so it could be baked. In remembrance of this occasion no unleavened bread is eaten during the course of Passover. It is a seven day holiday of the Feast of Unleavened bread. So Matza, a flat unleavened bread has become the symbol of the holiday. The word "Passover" comes from pasach whose meaning is assumed to be "He passed over," referring to God "passing over" the homes of the Hebrews during that time in which ten plagues struck Egypt, forcing Pharaoh to release the Hebrews from bondage.

Passover is celebrated on the first night with the Seder, a special dinner. In communities outside of Israel it is celebrated during the first two nights. During the meal, a special Seder Platter is set and the story of the Exodus from Egypt is retold with participants quoting from a revered text called the Haggadah. And, yes, four cups of wine are consumed while retelling the narrative.

There are traditional Passover dishes like gefilte fish, matzo ball soup, roast chicken, and lamb which is a particularly popular dish for Passover. My Ashkenazic friends always served a roast brisket for the holiday. Ashkenazic Jews are those descended from Western and Eastern Europe. As opposed to Sephardic Jews whose lineage hails from the Mediterranean, especially Spain, Portugal and North Africa. It should be noted that Passover is also celebrated by the Samaritans, a group whose religion is closely related to Judaism and who trace their history to the ancient Israelites (one can recall in the Gospels Jesus' account of the Good Samaritan).

Brisket of beef is a cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of cattle, and it can be cooked in many ways inclusive of braising, barbecue, grilling, smoking and roasting. Check out the recipe below. You won't be disappointed; and you don't have to be Jewish to enjoy it.

PASSOVER BRISKET

1 brisket of beef, 4 to 5 pounds, trimmed of excess fat
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup potato starch (or more as needed)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon dried oregano
3 medium tomatoes, sliced in rounds
2 medium onions, sliced in rounds
1 green bell pepper (pimento), sliced in rounds
1/2 cup water

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Heat olive oil in a large roasting pan. Add brisket and brown on all sides over medium-high heat.
3. Sprinkle brisket all over with potato starch, salt, pepper, garlic powder and oregano.
4. Arrange potato slices on top of brisket; and then arrange onions and green pepper around brisket. Add water and roast, uncovered, until meat is tender, about 3-4 hours. Cooking time will depend on thickness of cut.
Yield: 6-8 servings

Cooking with Wine - Part II (Marinades)

March 18, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Using wine to marinate foods has long been a tradition in cooking. When we think of a marinade, we think of meat. And wine is perfect for it. It tenderizes the meat, gives body and strength to its texture and, at the same time, enhances the flavor. This works well with the less tender cuts of meat (i.e. cheaper cuts) and even game meats such as venison.

It is considered that the use of marinades began in the old sailing days. Sailors would use wines and spirits as marinades to preserve their meats. Otherwise a mariner would be eating rotten meat for the extended voyage. In time this process was taken up by landlubbers. Marinating is a simple enough procedure. The meat is placed in an enamel or glass container, then you add the wine and spices. The meat is turned every few hours until the marinade does its work. These days the meat is kept in the refrigerator.

Try the marinated beef recipe given below. You'd be surprised how an inexpensive cut of meat can reach such glorious heights.

BEEF IN MARINADE

Marinade ingredients:

2 1/2 pounds boneless chuck steak
2 cups dry red wine
1 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small onion, sliced
4 bay leaves
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
4 sprigs parsley
10 whole black peppercorns

Cooking ingredients:

4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoons ginger
1 tablespoon cornstarch

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a deep glass or enamel bowl combine the marinade ingredients. Place the meat in the bowl and cover with a lid or aluminum foil. Allow the beef to marinate for approximately 12 hours, turning two or three times.
2. Remove beef from marinade and dry on paper towels.
3. Heat three tablespoons of butter and the olive oil in a casserole or Dutch oven pot, and brown the meat on both sides over medium heat.
4. Strain the marinade and add to the beef. Place in oven and bake for 2 hours or until meat is tender.
5. Remove meat from casserole and boil marinade over high heat until the liquid is reduced to one cup. Dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons water and add to the marinade. Stir until thicken. Add ginger, salt, pepper, and swirl in the remaining tablespoon of butter.
6. Slice meat at an angle and serve with the sauce. This dish is good with dumplings or boiled potatoes.
Yield: 6-8 servings.

Colcannon for Saint Paddy's Day

March 11, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Saint Patrick's Day is here again. According to legend, Saint Patrick drove all the snakes out of Ireland. My father use to say use that, after hoisting a few drinks, all the snakes came back. Be it as it may, it's time for festivity, joy, green beer, green hats and all that goes with this glorious holiday, at least on this side of the pond.

The traditional dish for Saint Paddy's day is, of course, corned beef and cabbage. However, there is another Irish treat that I myself am partial to: Colcannon. This is a country dish that's right up there with Irish stew and Irish soda bread; and it can be served on Saint Paddy's day or any other day of the year. It's a homey, delicious dish. Some would call it mashed potatoes plus. But that doesn't do it justice. It's far tastier and richer than ordinary mash potatoes. It goes great with a few rashes of Irish bacon or a few slices of smoked ham. Add a pint, and you're in heaven.

COLCANNON

8 large mealy potatoes
8 small white onions, peeled
3 scallions, washed and trimmed
1 cup half and half milk
1 1/2 cups boiled, chopped Savoy cabbage
3 tablespoons melted butter
Pinch of grated or ground nutmeg
Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1. Boil potatoes, peel and mash. Place in a large bowl and set aside.
2. Put the half and half in a small pan or skillet. Add onions and scallions and cook over medium-low heat until tender. Strain, reserving liquid. Mince onions and scallions.
3. Add the onions, scallions, and the half and half liquid to the potatoes. Mix well and whip until fluffy. Add more half and half milk if needed. Stir in all other ingredients and blend well.
Yield: 6 servings.

Cooking with Wine - Part I

March 8, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera


Humanity has been cooking with wine since the inception of the grape. And not only wine but spirits in general. There are aficionados who cook with brandy, rum, whisky, you name it. Almost every culture that has spirituous liquors, cooks with them. Yet a lot of us have never cooked with wine, or even thought of it. Adding wine to your cuisine is like adding any other ingredient, herb or spice. Wine gives body and life to many dishes. And if you're concerned about the alcohol, no need to be. Even a teetotaler can use spirits in their cooking. The alcohol content evaporates when subjected to heat and only the flavoring remains.

There are many variations to wine cooking, ranging from using it as a marinade, or to produce a sauce, or even a poaching liquid. In this post I will focus on using wine at its basic: as an item which will combine with other ingredients to produce a lush blend of flavors and aromas. We're not talking about flambeing or flaming a piece of meat or fruit in order to get the taste, although that's also part of it. I'm talking about simple dishes that can be enhanced with a bit of the grape.

When most of us think of cooking with wine, or spirits in general, we immediately imagine those classic dishes such as boeuf bourguignon (beef cooked in Burgundy wine) or duck simmered in port. A lot of us cringe because it seems like such a bother. Here's a secret: it can be simple, and still be flavorful and delicious. Like the recipe given below. Nothing fancy, nothing time consuming. Just your basic lamb chops cooked in wine and herbs. The dish can also be done with pork chops or chicken breasts.

A final word: I know there are cooking wines out there on the grocer's shelf. Skip it. If you're going to cook with wine, use the wine you're going to drink with dinner. If you think it's a rare vintage, then buy something comparable at a lesser price and use that. The whole reason that cooking wines came about was to prevent the hired cooks from drinking the wines. So wines were salted and made unpalatable, and used for cooking. You're cooking for yourself and friends. You're not a hired cook. Enjoy your labors.

LAMB CHOPS WITH WINE AND HERBS

4 lamb chops, about 1/2 pound each and about 1 1/2 inches thick
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup wine, either dry red or dry white
1 teaspoons fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup basil leaves, washed and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely minced
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Sprinkle the chops with salt and pepper on both sides.
2. Use a heavy fry pan or skillet (I prefer cast iron) large enough to hold the chops in one layer. Heat oil and butter until foaming. Add chops and cook until tender (about 4 minutes per side). Remove from pan and keep warm.
2. Discard fat from pan and add wine. Scrape the bottom to release browned or cooked pieces clinging to the pan. Quickly boil wine over high heat until half of the wine has evaporated.
3. Add thyme, basil, and garlic. Saute for a minute or so. Add tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the chops to the pan and cook for 2 minutes more. Remove to a serving platter and sprinkle with the parsley.
Yield: 4 servings (or 2 servings for big eaters)

Tuna Fish Casserole - The Old Standby

March 1, 2010

from Oswald at Large by Oswald Rivera

Back in my youth, me and my dear friend, Paul Goldstein, use to share a place in the Bronx, not far from the Concourse. During our lean periods, we would have his famous tuna casserole which would keep us going until the next payday came in.

Today, my salad days are behind me but, once in a while, my wife and I prepare a tuna fish casserole which harkens back to those days of my young manhood. Actually, this dish is a great American invention if there ever was one; the best, quick pick me up meal I can think of. It's easy to make, filling and nutritious. I'm sure there are as many tuna fish casserole recipes as there are grains in the sand. Yet, my limited palate considers Pablo's creation to be among the best. And it is given below. So, the next time your significant other, or the kids, or any one else in the family, yearns for something fast and good, nothing beat this old standby.

PALIBACHI'S TUNA FISH CASSEROLE

2 5-ounce cans tuna fish
1 package egg noodles
1 can Campbell's cream of mushroom soup
1 can Campbell's cream of golden mushroom soup (absolutely need 2 different ones)
1 10-ounce package frozen peas and carrots
12 slices of Kraft American cheese or cheese of your choice
2 eggs
1 medium green bell pepper (pimento), sliced in rounds being careful to remove seeds
and fibers
1 tomato, sliced in rounds
Ground cinnamon to taste

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.
2. Cook egg noodles according to package directions, drain, rinse, and place in a large Pyrex or glass bowl.
3. Add both cans of soup. DO NOT ADD WATER. Drain tuna fish and add to bowl along with the peas and carrots. Add the eggs and mix well.
4. Add cheese slices so that they cover the top but leaving an open space in the middle of the casserole. Top with alternate slices of tomato and green pepper. Sprinkle with cinnamon.
5. Bake for 30 minutes (max).
Yield: 6 to 8 servings.